The valley of the Trebbia

Nele
Jun 11, 2018
5 min read

The valley of the river Trebbia is worth visiting. It's one of my favorite destinations. Especially in summer, when the hills are green and the water of the Trebbia is azure blue. The source of the Trebbia is located in the Ligurian Apennines. The river reaches the "Po" after 120 km. The Trebbia meanders through the Apennines. The region around Bobbio has a lot of assets: beautiful scenery, gorgeous hiking trails, amazing views, beautiful pebble beaches along the banks of the river and crystal clear water to swim in. Ernest Hemingway described te valley as "the most beautiful in the world". At my opinion, the most beautiful view you will find in 'borgo di Brugnello'.

You can do this tour easily in one day but in my opinion two days are optimal to immerse yourself in the tranquillity and beauty of this spot.

Distance:

From Parma ± 220 km (110 km to Bobbio, 1h 33 min).

From Piacenza ± 90 km (40 km to Bobbio, 30 min)

Where to lunch?

It would be selfish not to mention this place: Osteria Braceria il Barone. The osteria is a bit hidden in the small center of Bobbio, but you need to go there! The owner is very welcoming and the dishes are simply perfect, made of regional products, most of them prepared on the grill.

Nice stops along the road

Rivergaro

From this place the magnificent panorama route starts throughout the the valley of the Trebbia.

Travo

In the town of Travo Sint-Antonino died in the year of 303 as a martyr. He was the patron saint of Piacenza. Today, Travo is just a very small and sleepy village. A visit of Travo will not take much time but don't hesitate to wander around in the narrow paved streets. You will pass the Castello degli Anguissola (property of the municipality) and the Pieve di Santa Antonino with frescos from the 15th century. Walk to the middle of the bridge across the river Trebbia. On one side you will have a beautifull view on Travo, on the other side you can enjoy the beautiful scenery, the hills and the crystal clear water of the Trebbia.

Fun with kids: villagio neolitica del travo. This is an archaeological park with an reconstructed village from the stoneage, neolithic period.

Bobbio

The historical center (which is very small and compact) has maintained the characteristics of the medieval village. The town is nestled at the foot of Monte Peniche. It got a qualification as one of the most beautifull villages of Italy on the website borghi piu belli d'italia but also in the Bandiera Arancione of the Touring Club Italiano.

Bobbio is also a stop on the hiking trail Via Francigena (an old pilgrim's route from Canterbury to Roma). The abbey di San Colombana (number 1) was founded in 614 by the Irish monk Sint Columbanus and was an important stop for pilgrims. The abbey can be visited at certain times. In the Middle Ages the abbey became one of the principal centers of religious culture. It was known in the 10th century for its famous scriptorium and library. The abbey was also a model for Umberto Eco's novel 'In the name of the rose'. Next to the abbey you can visit the 14th century Castello Malaspina Valley Verme (number 2) which offers a beautiful view on the roofs and hills of Bobbio.

Also very famous and photogenic is the Ponte Vecchio, also called Ponte Gobbo (Hunchback Bridge) or the Devils Bridge. It is an ancient stone bridge of Roman origin, which crosses the river Trebbia in eleven irregular arches.

The bridge has a lenght of 273 meters. The legend says that the bridge was built by the Devil. The story tells that Saint Columbanus wanted to cross the river but couldn't succeed because the water was to rough. The devil offered Saint Columbanus to built the bridge but in exchange for the first mortal soul who crossed the bridge. Sint Columbanus agreed with the pact. The devil builded the bridge in one night and the next morning he was waiting for Saint Columbanus to receive his payment. But Saint Columbanus sent his dying dog over the bridge to the devil. The devil understood that he was tricked and took out his fury by 'kicking' the bridge. That is the reason why the bridge is 'hunchbacked'. Although, I prefer the legend, the historical reality is different. The bridge has a Roman origin. The first documentation about the bridge has been found in 1196 and the bridge was subject for several renovations over the years (16th and 17th century) . Finally you can also visit the basilica of Saint-Columbanus. This basilica was built between 1456 and 1522. In the crypt you can still admire a wonderful mosaic floor (10x10m) from the 12h century and some well kept frescos.

Brugnello

Insider tip! 'Borgo Brugnello'.

When you drive towards Marsaglia and you cross the bridge over the Trebbia you have to turn immediately to the right. Be attentive because the signalisation is not very clear. A small road (3 km) with a lot of hairpins leads to the hamlet. There is ample parking space so leave your car somewhere in an inlet of the road. There is one restaurant / bar where you can have a drink or lunch. The only paved pedestrian alley from the hamlet leads to the church/chapel and from there you have a beautiful panoramic view on the valley and the meandering Trebbia.

Ottone

From Marsaglia onwards, the road becomes more winding but the mountain scenery is gorgeous. Our last stop on this trip was Ottone. Nice to know: Pietro Toscanini, the great-grandfather of Arturo Toscanini (famous Italian conductor, buried in Parma) was born in Bogli Borgo Ottone on the 19th of May 1769.

Swimming

The Trebbia is one of the cleanest rivers in Italy. The current and the washing of the water resulted in very beautiful and in some places very deep natural swimming bowls. You can find beautiful spots between Bobbio and Ottone. Please note that these are quiet spots in nature and do not have large parking spaces.

You have to park the car in the scarce coves along the way. Another possibility is to park the car on the large parking (next to the river) in Bobbio or in Marsaglia and then continue on foot. Please don't leave any waste and plastic garbage when you leave. Leave a paradisiacal spot intact!

The following places are very idyllic: spiaggia delle anse di Brugnello, spiaggia delle Chiesetta.

Be careful! The water is very cold. The locals also warn visitors: never swim when you just have eaten and keep an eye on your children.

Festivals

Each year, during summer, there is programmed the Bobbio Film Festival. During that period you can enjoy some musical events, see movies, meet film lovers, artists as well as critics from newspapers.